[materials dictionary]
acetate
a manufactured fibre formed by compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acidic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.
brocade
a heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design. common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery, draperies, and eveningwear.
charmeuse
charmeuse is made with a satin weave which is soft, yet supple and drapes beautifully. fabric is woven with a satin weave, where the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing threads. the front side of the fabric has a satin finish, lustrous and reflective, and the back has a dull finish.
chiffon
a plain woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. chiffon is elegant and sheer, with a very slightly rough feel to it. chiffon is lightweight (chiffon is french for 'rag'), but strong. chiffon is softer and thinner than georgette, sometimes called 'crepe chiffon'. georgette is made like chiffon, but a two or three ply yarn is used. the fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibres.
cotton
a unicellular, natural fibre that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. fibres are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. the longest staple fibres, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the pima and egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.
dupioni
dupioni (sometimes spelled 'douppioni' or 'dupion'), is a lustrous silk often woven from two different colours of threads, so that it shimmers or changes colour in the light. dupioni is made from an irregular, rough silk reeled from double cocoons or cocoons spun side-by-side which are interlocked, making it necessary to reel them together. usually brightly coloured, it has a moderately crisp drape, fairly reflective lustre, and a nubby texture. it is crisp to the touch and doesn't wrinkle badly or hold a crease well. it is reversible, not particularly stretchy, and relatively easy to sew.
gabardine
a tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting. polyester, cotton, rayon, and various blends are also used in making gabardine
georgette
a sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibres as polyester, with a crepe surface. end-uses include dresses and blouses.
habutai
habutai is a japanese word meaning 'soft as down' and both habutai and china silk are soft, lightweight and lustrous. very closely related, both have a soft graceful drape, a smooth surface and vary in weight from 5mm (momme) to 10 mm. habutai is natural in colour, sheer and ivory, and china silk is smoother and usually dyed. sari silk is a variation of china silk from india. very sheer, but good for lining and lightweight garments like lingerie. seams may pull open on tightly fitted garments. sews relatively easily, and doesn't show pins marks.
hemp
a coarse, durable bast fibre obtained from the inner bark of the hemp plant. used primarily in twines and cordages, and most recently apparel.
interfacing
fabrics used to support, reinforce and give shape to fashion fabrics in sewn products. often placed between the lining and the outer fabric., it can be made from yarns or directly from fibres, and may be either woven, nonwoven, or knitted. some interfacings are designed to be fused (adhered with heat from an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to the fashion fabric.
lamŽ
a woven fabric using flat silver or gold metal threads to create either the design or the background in the fabric.
linen
a fabric made from linen fibres obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. linen fibres are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibres. linen is one of the oldest textile fibres.
lining
a fabric that is used to cover the inside of a garment to provide a finished look. generally, the lining is made of a smooth lustrous fabric.